Two days after hiking Veggen, I found myself gearing up for another hike, one I had noted from the minimal research I had done while still in the States. Unfortunately, I approached the day in a rough state after my first poor night’s sleep in Norway. The previous evening, I was turned away by a full sign at Camping Moskenes. The saga’s end was a fitful night’s sleep parked at a pull-off of E10, the busy main road.  

Fortunately, the cool, crisp air, beautiful scenery, and steep climb woke me right up.

The hike began traversing up the gradual incline of a protected valley. After 20 minutes I arrived at a small lake where a handful of backpackers had spent the night. From there I joined a more main route up to the summit of Ryten, the mountain overlooking Kvalvika Beach. Many other hikers filled the trail but the wide path and expansive geography prevented the area from feeling over-crowded. On the final climb up to Ryten, there were no switchbacks, just a steep pitch with incredible views. I stopped to catch my breath many times and enjoyed the epic scenery.

The clouds and mist were swirling all around, continuously changing the scenery, with peaks appearing and then disappearing and vistas opening up and then being obscured by the grey mass just as quickly. It was majestic, to say the least!

I arrived at the summit where a crowd was gathered, enjoying the remarkable views. I sat and watched in wonder as the clouds continued to dance around the landscape.

After food, photography, and rest I began the journey back down the slope to a junction where a very steep path dropped down to Kvalvika Beach. It was challenging and slow going with a mix of boardwalks, mud, and boulders to navigate.

Upon arriving at the beach, I immediately removed my shoes and sunk my feet deep into the cold sand with a giant smile on my face. It felt incredibly therapeutic. To be walking along the beach that I had just been viewing from high above was immensely satisfying. The sounds, the view, and the smells, which comprised the entire experience were the perfect culmination of an epic hike.

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Lessons from: Ryten + Kvalvika Beach Hike

• Like Matmora there is more than one trailhead for hiking Ryten and Kvalvika Beach. I chose the only unofficial trailhead because the parking area was free. From the small lot, the trailhead is just a short northward walk down the paved road. The trailhead is on the left-hand side. This route appealed to me as a true loop option. The only downside is that the final section also traverses the paved road.
• The Kvalvika Beach Trailhead provides the most direct route to Kvalvika. You could park here and do the exact reverse of the loop that I hiked.
• The third option is the Ryten/Kvalvika Beach Trailhead. This route provides an out-and-back option.
• All of these trailheads fill up early in the summer season so it is essential to arrive early.